Siena is a charming medieval city just south of Florence that is best known for its famous horse race, called the Palio, in which riders wearing the bright, traditional colors and insignia of each of the city's time-honored neighborhoods vie for first place in a thunderous free-for-all around the beautiful piazza. It is a place that takes tradition seriously, in food as well as horse races, which is evident in its dedication to panforte. Every store in the city seems to have its own "best" version of this honey-based cross between a fruitcake and a candy, with a chewy, dense, caramel-like texture packed with almonds and hazelnuts, spices, and candied citrus peels. While in Siena, I tasted many versions-all for research purposes, you understand-and my favorites were those that contained the cocoa, which tempers the sweetness and adds complexity to the flavor. I couldn't help thinking that panforte would be even better packed with those addictive dried sour cherries from Michigan that I adore. This tart is very reminiscent in flavor to a scuro panforte, although it is not the classic cake-like confection. Instead, a crisp tart shell is filled with almonds (both sliced and whole for a contrast of textures) and dried sour cherries coated with just enough honey, spices, and citrus zest to sweeten them. The tart is a gorgeous, rustic sight, the sensuous curves of the nuts and cherries a glistening medley of browns. I serve it during the winter months, when its spicy flavors and chewy crunchiness are most appreciated.... go on »
